received by Philip Zolezzi, and we gladly publish a contribution of Almo Giambisi on his dear friend Claudio Barbier. Almo Giambisi should have been one of the guests of honor at the commemoration day of Claudio Barbier, but his job as manager of the refuge on Pordoi prevented him from participating. This message, written by hand on eight sheets of lined paper, is its contribution of esteem and affection of a lifetime friend, and
will be read by Philip during the afternoon of Saturday, August 21.
M
i am very sorry not to attend the event and in particular the memory of Claude Barbier.
But the commitments I have with the refuge does not allow me to be among you. Claudia tied me to a great friendship, which lasted about fifteen years I had met him before settling at Pordoipass, hotel with Lana, I think Vaiolet Refuge in 1965.
In 1967 he spent almost all summer and had to Vaiolet different routes, some new, some with me.
At first the relationship was not easy: he had a difficult and alternating moments of elation and moments of great sadness. I remember sitting at a table in the bar at the Col di Lana with his head in his hands for a long time staring at the mountain through the window.
I made a big quarrel Vaiolet to return to after being in Val Canali, for the bad weather we were not able to open a new route.
I'll be blamed for missing the first good weather, I had work commitments at the refuge, he had the whole summer free.
There was a scuffle at the edge of the hands. Then from that little fight there was a big deal.
Maybe I was the only one among his friends with whom he confided, he could talk about everything, even of her personal problems very delicate. And often I avoided clashes with climbers who do not know, given its reputation in the environment, were the questions that he considered inappropriate.
of anecdotes there are many, sometimes very funny. I should write more often, which is not congenial to me.
Sometimes, when I was not going to climb down with me to Canazei and returning to Pordoipass I happened to have to accompany a de Peian Schiavaneis he was annoyed because the smell of the seats of the car and climb the Faithful or preferred Dibona to the west of sass Pordoi, to the hotel. It sometimes happened that he came first to me, I did a few stops before arriving at the hotel with friends.
The book now comes with me for 40 years before the Col di Lana, then the Refuge Antermoia was his idea, returning from Trent, as he dined together at the hotel I put a package on the table and told me Almo this is a gift for you.
And so I found a diary in his hands again, the brown cover, edged with gold, with a paper towel inside.
The origin of Claudius was a middle class family, it is noted in many of its ways of conduct and behavior.
the Col di Lana, also for the presence of Claudius, began to arrive many climbers from different parts of Italy, many German, Monaco, Austria and others. and so began to make them sign the book to several climbers who came to the Pordoi. Of course I did start to Claudio, he wrote and spoke different languages, Italian, German, English and French of course.
Sometimes it was he himself who was going to take it to the office to get it signed, as Leo Schloner that I did not know. I know Al's Vajolet Renato Reali, who died just 20 years in solitary at the Grand Capucin Bonatti, he did with some climbs, I was intrigued. At Pordoi I did meet with young Giancarlo Milan, made several ascents together. At Pordoi met several of my friends with whom climbed: Alberto Dorin, Aldo Levites.
By Alberto made several climbs, could understand the character and I noticed that among them was very understanding, to Pordoi Tone Valeruz not yet met but mountaineer extreme skier.
by Claudio Pordoi moved often, had not yet AMI 8, for him the most suitable machine for a mountaineer who wore wandering around with him.
Before moved by public transport, most of the equipment was from me, some things had to Polazzon Ceci, Alleghe, some by Toni Room Vigo di Fassa.
But after the purchase of the famous 8 AMI had almost everything on machine, its delivery
was the Col di Lana at Pordoi, so all his mail came to me. He wrote often to tell of his climbs, his meetings with climbers, but he preferred the Dolomites. But every now and then spent time in the Western Alps, he became friends with Lionel Terray for which he had a reverence.
of him I have many letters, postcards, rarely writing (like no, I'm allergic to writing). Often phoned me wondering many things, and especially of time, and then if I was free for climbing.
with a friend Florence, for years a frequent visitor of the Col di Lana, with a great passion for the mountains, went into the towers of the Pordoi new way to make a not too demanding. I think it was one of the best days of his life, called Via Fiaschi and wrote in the report that drew a bottle of wine. The name of my friend Leopold was Fiaschi, in the evening there was a really nice party with bottles of Chianti wine!
Claudio was a gourmet, enjoy fine food and eating liked to drink a glass of wine, preferably cork.
Another important meeting was with Claudio Heini Holzer, accompanied him Merano, Heini I knew him for a long time, being Merano, we went to find him, after the death of Claudio we went together to the funeral ceremony in Brussels. Heini Besides, there were Dorin Alberto, Marino Stenico, and Annetta Stenico. For Heini Claudio had a great esteem and were astonished at his solitary chimneys Rizzi Tower Innerkofler Sassolungo, as is well known Heini was very small.
In a trip I made with my ex-wife and grandson of Tita Piaz in Brussels, we went to see Claude. Mariangela had previously written to King Leopold of Belgium, who had climbed with Piaz. We received an invitation to meet him in his castle of Argenteil.
Claudio took us to be our interpreter and the King himself wanted to meet him, had heard of his exploits in the Dolomites. During the meeting, which lasted a week, showed us photographs and slides of his climbs and his father King Albert who died in gym known as Mache The Dam in Belgium.
Claudio On that occasion he lost the opportunity to accompany him in one of his trips, the king told us that he often traveled with Heinrich Harrer.
In later years I asked several times if he had gone to the king, but the answer was always negative. Too bad, maybe his life would have been another turning point.
my opinion: Claudio is considered one of the greatest climbers ever lonely. Today they are exploits that have made incredible, but we must take into account the evolution of climbing equipment and specific preparation.
I think that the solitary Claudio report in time are not worth less to the present.
Almo Giambisi
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